May 28th, 2024 - Athens, Greece

Gooood morning. It’s our second full day in Athens and we’re up early to visit the great Acropolis. We saw it from afar yesterday after a stroll became a hike up a hill and became a sunset with half the tourists in Athens (with Savyon getting pulled into a Greek dance circle somewhere in between). The hope now, though, is to see it up close! Our guide on yesterday’s walking tour (who was amazing, by the way) strongly recommends going first thing in the morning before “the tourists” arrive. Which feels funny given that it was a walking tour for tourists. But maybe there is a hierarchy of tourists, as defined by the tour guides.

Us with the the Acropolis

As of now, we know we’re leaving Athens in a week, but have only booked the next 3 days. So while we’re busy enjoying Athens in the moment, we’re also determining where we’re going to sleep next, and considering where to go in August and September because we have some friends who are trying to come and travel with us but can’t “just figure it out” the way we are. All of this also includes trying to plan around a visa that allows us to stay in the Shengen part of Europe for only 90 days - and September is more than 90 days from now. It’s all a bit of a mess.

This airbnb is dope though. We had many preparatory therapy sessions focused on staying in hostels to save money, and though the hostel remains the better way to make friends, it’s essentially the same price for us to get a nice airbnb as it would be for both of us to stay in a hostel. As much as socializing remains a draw, it’s hard to justify sleeping in a top bunk with a bunch of strangers when I can have my own space and a balcony. My feelings may change, however.

Anyway, as I said, today’s agenda is go up to the Acropolis, then see the Acropolis museum where they have accumulated a vast array of very old statues and clay pots and other such figurines. The museum requires a separate appointment, so to give ourselves enough time to really see the acropolis, we book the first for 9 am and the museum at 1:30pm, with time for a quick lunch in between.

Forgot to take better pictures.

As it turns out, as beautiful as the Acropolis is, I wouldn’t say there is sooo much to do up there. It’s not even like we can take any pictures pretending to be ancient Greeks because there are cranes in every shot being used for “reconstruction”. Which begs the question “is anything even real anymore?” It’s now 10 am and we’re already sauntering down the huge slippery-when-dry staircase, finally understanding what our guide meant when he said “the tourists.” 

As we’re transgressing the mountain, we look at what can only be described as a throng of tourists. Sunscreen not rubbed in, t-shirts from the Caribbean, phones in waterproof sleeves hanging around their neck kind of tourists. An endless line of them that coalesce into a blob of color overflowing with patterns to the point that it feels monochromatic - such as when you mix too many play-doh colors and it basically turns brown. The only break appears with an occasional sign rising above the group containing a name of a cruise ship and a number, seemingly indicating which tour group that guide represents. Ahhh yes, Athens is a port city, and theeeese are the tourists he mentioned. 

We get to the bottom and realize we have so much time to kill. What better way to pass the time than to catch up on all the admin we have to do! Have to is a funny term in this context given much of it is manufactured urgency because we’re on Holiday, but that’s besides the point. We find a coffee shop, and in a very American style, pace our orderings over 3 hours so the workers don’t hate us for sitting on our computers that long - spoiler alert, coffee shop culture in Europe differs from America. They don’t care if you sit for a few hours. 

Yummmm?

Once settled, I realize it isn’t just the admin that has been building. It’s decisions. Like when you sit down mid-hike and the fatigue just hits you all at once, (wo)man do I have decision fatigue. I thought the wedding caused some intense decision fatigue, but this is different. We’re simultaneously trying to enjoy our current trip while planning our next trip while making decisions about the subsequent trip. We’re trying to coordinate with friends who have been to Italy but haven’t been to Croatia, and may be free in August.. While another friend is going to be in Berlin in July and my cousin is going to maybe be in the Nordic region eventually? We’re trying to live in the moment but also want to travel with our friends! We want to stay in a place for long enough to breathe and enjoy but also want to see more places! And then, while attempting to fit the pieces together, we’re hoping to acquire a ticket to see cool shit and determine where we’re eating dinner tonight. All without recognizing that I’m starting to get hangry and dehydrated even though I’m currently at a coffee shop, simply because the food isn’t great and I’m abroad and want all my meals to be amazing so I should just go to google maps and trust the reviews because I don’t have time to research travel blogs for every place I go, but this coffee shop was recommended on google so can I even trust anything anymore? 

Ok, that was a mouthful (handful?). But you get the idea. As is clear, I’m having a bit of a meltdown. And this is being exacerbated by I/P stuff and what it’s like being in Europe (and specifically Athens) at this time. In life I try not to live in the absolutes, and especially because I’m so far away and only have social media, the things you see on social media are the absolutes, and the things you see graffitied on walls are the absolutes.

Also, I had fired my therapist right before leaving on this trip, so in addition to being uprooted from my general routine, I don’t have the same coping skills / mechanisms I might have access to if I was back in San Francisco. (That said, not every therapist is going to be the right fit! Find a therapist. But also, find one that works for you!)

I realize that along the way, we just don’t have time to make all of the most educated decisions. Like in the past, I’ve focused on managing the disappointment when my plans don’t come to fruition, but what about the scenarios where I missed an opportunity because of a lack of research! How will I know all the best spots if I don’t spend the time searching for them?? And for what it’s worth, no travel blog can just gift you the best stuff, though The Lonely Planet gets pretty close. So… I’m melting down. I’m also somewhat melting - it’s hot. (Also also, those of you who know me well enough, know that I go through phases of using specific phrases wayyy too frequently. Right now, that phrase is “for what it’s worth” and Savyon is already accustomed to immediately replying “What is it worth?”)

After Savyon has watch me melt down for two hours, we decide to see if the museum will let us in early, because sitting at this coffee shop is not doing me any good and I can’t order another sub-par cookie to soothe my anxiety that we’re overstaying our welcome at an establishment we paid for. We get in line, meet a couple guys from Germany - we’re going there! “Oh nice! When?!” Not sure. Eventually? It’s a touchy subject right now. 

The museum is nicely air conditioned and super cool. I don’t even make the easy pun here because I need to emphasize the importance of air conditioning. This museum contains more reading than my AP Lit course, but also a plethora of cool ceramics and statues. It reminds me of an exhibit I went to at the MET. Fun fact, most Greek and Roman sculptures used to be adorned with paint! Vibrant colors! You’re probably imagining a Monet imposed on a sculpture, since the sculptures are so well done. Sadly, you’re wrong. They project a similar vibe as my 6th grade art project where we made paper mache masks. Here is a link to the MET website if you’re curious. Honestly sad that such impressive sculpting was covered up by sub-par paint. It’s like when a restaurant puts Cilantro as a garnish, they did all that work preparing such a nice meal only to ruin it at the end. Hopefully this doesn’t offend anyone.

After the museum, we decide to reclaim our energies… and calmness. But by our, I think we both mean me, Savyon seems to be doing fine today. We go home, venture on a run through the gorgeous hills behind us, take a siesta, do some breathing exercises, and then continue planning. We’re staying in a hostel for the weekend. Yay bunkbeds and socializing!

A bit too hot to run

At this point, Savyon requires energizing because she is just a baby, and google recommends a great coffee shop in a cool area, so we’re on our way to a pre-evening caffeine run.

Here’s something to know about me, I’ve never had coffee. I’ve had espresso martinis and coffee ice cream, and I loooove them. We had espresso martinis at our wedding, and my go to ice cream order is coffee ice cream with a chocolate / brownie secondary flavor. But I’ve never even tried an actual cup of coffee. Not an espresso, not a drip, not a latte, a macchiato, an americano thing. Never. And again, it isn’t because I think I wouldn’t like it, it’s because I dislike the culture around coffee. We joke it is a drug, but it is. I already struggle to stay regulated and get myself to sleep, and I’ve always felt that if I could rely on caffeine to help me get up in the morning, I’d have even less motivation to turn off Youtube at 1 am. Also, it’s kind of crazy that people just exist in a world where they get actual withdrawal symptoms if they stop for a day. I’ve had several conversations that have gone somewhat like the following:

Me: I have a headache.

Friend: Ahhh, didn’t have your coffee today?

Me: What? No. I’m just very hungover. 

And for a long time, my decision fatigue has caused me to lean on absolute decisions as a form of minimizing mental energy. In 10th grade, I decided I was going to study Statistics in college, and I decided to never look back. And I didn’t. I didn’t reconsider when I loved chemistry, or when my math teacher in high school encouraged me to look at engineering. Because sometimes it’s easier to make a decision and move on. 

But as time goes on, and I engage more with people politically and regarding I/P, I’ve been trying to reevaluate my relationship to absolutes. And coffee seems to be the biggest one. Like, I’ve never even tried it! Why? Yes because of absolutes, but also because at this point it has become a thing. Like my fun fact is that I’ve never even tasted coffee. I had a nightmare once that I drank coffee, and I say nightmare because when I woke up and was in that hazy state where you’re not sure if it actually happened or not, my first thought was “Damn, now I need a new go-to fun fact.” 

Last year, I considered if a really good situation comes up that makes it worth the story, sure, I’ll drink coffee. But then that put so much pressure on it. 

So here we are, in Athens. I’m having decision fatigue. I'm frustrated by the way people are choosing to live in the absolutes because it makes their lives easier, even if it impacts the lives of other people, and I just need to give up some control. So when Savyon orders a cappuccino, I order one also. What is that? I’m not sure. I didn't looove it, tasted a bit underwhelming. Since then, I’ve tried all the various coffee - milk - water combinations, and really for me, it’s Espresso or bust. 

So here we are, sitting at a coffee shop in Athens, sipping coffee, recognizing that we can’t manicure every part of our lives. From this moment, I vow to just make some decisions, do my best to research, and to let things happen as they are. And tonight is the first night of that! 

Just the cutest wine bar

We want to watch the sunset at a rooftop wine bar recommended by friends, but a place that good has no seating… so we take a cute pic of Savyon and then go to a local alley wine bar that the barista recommended, and it is absolutely adorable. Woo! It’s working! 

We go to dinner at a restaurant recommended by a local… and the food is yucky. They basically fried an entire fish with the bones still inside it, and didn’t even fry it at the right heat to be crispy. Basically just an oily mushy bone-filled fish. Way too much effort for something that doesn’t even taste that good. Plus, our dessert is bad. 

Oh well. Maybe next time I’ll do more research.